The 12 best spots to whale watch in Sydney without a tour

Whale Watching is one of our favourite things about the winter in Sydney. We try to squeeze in as many coastal walks as we can to catch a glimpse of one of these gentle giants, as they migrate from Antarctica to the warmer waters of Queensland. The whale watching action this season (2020) has already been incredible and we’ve seen over 35 whales in just a few outings.

There’s nothing like seeing a whale breach in front of you and then looking around and realising you have this special moment all to yourself. The great thing about Sydney is that you can see whales from the land! You may not get as close to them as you often do on a boat, but when you look at some of the photos we’ve managed to take, you’ll see that you can still get pretty close (note: all whale photos in this blog were taken from the places listed on this article, not a boat).

If you suffer from seasickness (like me!) it makes a great alternative to taking a boat trip - or if you simply want to see them multiple times in a season (also me!).

Here are our favourite Sydney whale watching spots as well as tips for maximising your chances of seeing them.

This photo was genuinely taken from the land! Its why we loved the Figure 8 Pools even more

This photo was genuinely taken from the land! Its why we loved the Figure 8 Pools even more


The best whale watching spots in Sydney

We’ve separated the best places to see whales, into spots around Sydney and then Royal National Park (as this place has many great spots itself).

Below you’ll see a map of the best spots near Sydney to see whales, with more in-depth information below. You can access a Google Maps version of it by clicking this link.

1. Hornby Lighthouse and The Gap, Watsons Bay

Accessible by public transport: Yes
Walking required: Yes

Hornby Lighthouse in Watsons Bay is a great place to look for whales. The walk round to Hornby Lighthouse is very picturesque and goes via one of the prettiest beaches in Sydney.

Hornby Lighthouse at Watsons Bay

Hornby Lighthouse at Watsons Bay

The rocky ledges in front of, and to the right of the lighthouse are our favourite spots to sit and look for whales, it’s all unfenced so just make sure you don’t get too close to the edge. You’re high up at the lighthouse so you have a very good view out of the heads and to the ocean.

You tend to see whales from a distance here as they stay a little further out from the heads, we still love it but just be aware it is not somewhere where you will see them at close range.

Whales at Cape Solander - Best places to see whales in Sydney

You’ll often see a congregation of whale watching boats just beyond the heads so you know where to look and then it’s easy to spot the spray or breaching.

The walk to the lighthouse is just under 1.5km each way and easy, there are a few stairs but it’s mainly flat, and paved.

If you don’t get lucky from here then continue back to Watsons Bay and walk up to The Gap, which is another great spot. It’s 500m from the wharf area, although it’s all mainly uphill!

The Gap at Watsons Bay

The Gap at Watsons Bay

The view for whale watching is fab and you also get a great view in the other direction back to the city too. We’ve actually seen more whales from The Gap than from Hornby Lighthouse but the benefit of Hornby is that you can sit and watch the whales, so we tend to stay for longer than at The Gap where you have to stand the whole time. Revealing an inner lazy side : )

For other fun things to do in the area read this post.

Getting there

By car: Watsons Bay is a 25 minute drive from the city on a clear day. If you visit on a weekday, getting a parking spot isn’t difficult. It becomes a lot harder on the weekend!

By public transport: The best way to get to Watsons Bay is by ferry from Circular Quay, which takes 25 minutes. You can then walk for 1.5km to Hornby Lighthouse or 500m to The Gap.



2. Cape Solander, Botany Bay

Accessible by public transport: Technically yes but it takes a long time
Walking required: No

Cape Solander is known as one of the best - if not the best - place to see whales in Sydney. Though we have always seen them from here, it’s not our fave… that’s coming up! Not to say it isn’t a fabulous spot though.

It’s manned by volunteers on weekends for several months of the year and they write all the whale sightings up on a white board and you’ll probably be staggered by the numbers, as well as the fact there are more than just Humpbacks!

If you’ve never seen a whale before the volunteers will always give you a helping hand, they usually spotted them a fair bit before we did!

There is a railed lookout where you can watch for the whales, or you can sit along the cliff ledge in front of the viewpoint.

The cliffs at Cape Solander

The cliffs at Cape Solander

If you’re planning on being there for the long haul we’d recommend walking to the right of the lookout where you can still sit and watch the whales without the crowds that are usually at the lookout point. If you’re up for a walk we’d recommend hiking the 3km track to Cape Baily Lighthouse. We saw whales the whole way along the walk and it’s both easy and absolutely stunning.

If you’re a keen walker you can extend the Cape Baily track all the way to Cronulla which we outline in this post.

Getting there

By car: Cape Solander is in Botany Bay National Park, near Cronulla. It is a 45 minute drive from the city and you can park right beside the lookout. However, it costs $8 to park there. If you don’t mind a short 1.2km walk, you can park on Polo Street for free.

By public transport: It is hypothetically possible to get to Cape Solander by public transport, but it isn’t fun. You’ll need to take the train from Central Station to Cronulla. From here you’ll need to get on the 987 bus which stops just outside Botany Bay National Park. Then it’s just a 1.6km walk to the lookout!


3. Boora Point, Maroubra

Accessible by public transport: Yes
Walking required: Yes

Boora Point is an amazing place to see whales, with an extensive rock shelf which has panoramic ocean views. It’s also high enough to offer a good vantage point but not so high that when you spot the whales you feel far away from them.

The whales at Malabar Head - Whale Watching Spots in Sydney

We saw five whales on our visit and four came really close to the cliffs which was pretty incredible. There is a lot of space to spread out and you can sit and watch the whales from the cliffs without it ever feeling crowded.

Best spots to go whale watching in Sydney - Boora Point

You can also see whales almost all the way along the easy walking track to Boora Point from Maroubra.

Getting there

By car: The best way to get to Boora Point by car is to park at Malabar Beach (35 minutes from the city). From here it is a 1.5 km walk (each way) to Boora Point, but it’s an easy walk. The walk from Maroubra is more scenic but longer.

By public transport: The easiest way to get to Boora Point by public transport is to take the 399 bus from Museum Station in the city to Malabar Beach. From the beach it is a 1.5 km walk.


4. Mackenzies Point, Bondi

Accessible by public transport: Yes
Walking required: Yes but very short

This was the first place we ever saw whales in Sydney, having arrived in the country just three days earlier. We couldn’t believe our luck and didn’t even know at that point that we could see whales there!

We saw a mother and calf very close to shore and they performed lots of tail slaps and rolls which had us well and truly mesmerised. We also saw a huge pod of dolphins from the same spot.

Whale watching in Sydney - The views from McKenzie Point

It’s a wonderful place to see them, although it’s unlikely you’ll get it to yourself as it sits along the ever popular Bondi to Coogee Walk.

McKenzie Point in Bondi - one of the best places to go whale watching in Sydney

It’s an easy spot to get to though, and makes for a great day when combined with a walk, a dip in the ocean and a trip to one of Bondi’s fantastic cafes - if we visit in the morning we can never go past the bagels at Lox Stock and Barrel.

Getting there

By car: McKenzies Point is at the southern end of Bondi Beach and is a 30 minute drive from the city. Parking can be tricky, but there are a lot of residential streets nearby.

By public transport: The easiest way to get to McKenzies Point by public transport is to take the 333 bus from Circular Quay to Bondi Beach. Then it’s a short walk along the Bondi to Coogee Walk.


5. Henry Head, La Perouse

Accessible by public transport: Yes
Walking required: Yes

Henry Head is a great vantage point for whale watching because you have a good panoramic view and can see for quite a distance. You’re not as high up as from some of the spots in Royal National Park, but you still have some elevation.

It’s also not as popular as Bondi, so whilst you may not get it all to yourself, it never feels crowded. It’s also a good spot to look out for White-bellied sea eagles which we often see here. The odd seal is also a possibility in the area but it’s less common.

Henry Head - La Perouse - Best Whale watching spots in Sydney

It requires a little more effort than Mackenzies Point in Bondi to get to but the walk is both beautiful and very easy. The trail to get there is the Henry Head Walking Track which we describe in detail in this post - we then carry the walk on to Cape Banks but you don’t have to if you want to keep it short. The total walk to Henry Head alone is just under 4km return.

Getting there

By car: La Perouse is most conveniently reached by car and it takes about 30 minutes to get to from the city. There’s plenty of free parking at La Perouse with no time restrictions. Then it’s a 2km walk (each way) to the lookout.

By public transport: La Perouse is pretty easy to get to by public transport. You’ll need to get the L94 bus from Museum Station to La Perouse, and it will stop at the start of the walk.


6. Long Reef Headland

Accessible by public transport: Yes but it’s a painful journey
Walking required: Yes

The Long Reef Headland is one of the best whale watching spots on the Northern Beaches and when you get there it’s easy to see why.

The view is expansive and you’re fairly high up. We’ve seen several whales from here and though you will undoubtedly be sharing the experience with many others, it’s a nice and relaxed vibe. It tends to be mostly locals.

The 4.8km return walk to the headland from Dee Why is really pretty and takes you along Dee Why Lagoon, the absolutely gorgeous Long Reef Beach and up to the headland.

Long reef headland - Great places to go whale watching in Sydney

There’s quite a bit to explore up there and as well as whales you can look out for the migratory shore birds between September and October and May. All the details on the walk are in this post.

Getting there

By car: Longreef Headland is a one hour drive from the city and has plenty of parking by the Long Reef Surf Life Saving Club, which is only a short walk from the lookout. Sadly it has the exorbitant Northern Beaches Council Parking charge, so you may want to look at some of the residential streets nearby to get free parking.

By public transport: you’ll need to get two buses to get to Longreef Headland, and it’s a very long journey. Hop on the B1 Bus from Wynyard and change for the 199 at Dee Why.


7. Manly North Head

Accessible by public transport: Yes, but with a long walk
Walking required: Yes, but very little if you drive

The North Head in Manly is another great whale watching spot and another good choice if you want to make a whole day of it. It’s a great area for walking, hitting the beach and generally soaking up the laid back vibe in one of the many cafes.

Views from the north head in Manly

We’ve seen whales from a few different areas in Manly but the best spot is the Fairfax Lookout at the North Head simply because you can see for quite a distance and you’re slightly elevated. If you do the whole Fairfax Loop it’s 1km and nice and easy. If you’re looking for a longer walk that includes the Fairfax Loop, try the Manly North Head Walk.


Getting there

By car: The North Head is a one hour drive from the city, and there is parking close by. However, the parking is quite limited.

By public transport: You can get the ferry from the city over to Manly, but to get to the North Head requires a 3.5km walk or hopping on the 135 bus to the start of the walk.


8. Barrenjoey Lighthouse, Palm Beach

Accessible by public transport: Yes
Walking required: Yes

The Barrenjoey Lighthouse is a favourite Sydney whale watching spot and, though we haven’t personally seen them here, we couldn’t miss it from this list because so many other people have.

The lighthouse can be reached via two walking tracks, both of which we’ve covered in this guide, along with a few secret spots to check out along the way!

If you want a short steep climb up, take the Smugglers Track which takes around 10 minutes.

Looking out to the Palm Beach Lighthouse from the West Head

Looking out to the Palm Beach Lighthouse from the West Head

For a shallower grade - but still steep - walk take the Access Track. Both trails leave from the same spot on Station Beach, close to the Boathouse Cafe which is highly recommended for a coffee before or after. It’s one of our fave things to do in Palm Beach.

When you get to the lighthouse the views are magnificent - over to Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park and the Central Coast. There’s an information board with lots of details about the whales and other marine life and a good spot to sit and wait for the action.

Getting there

By car: The drive from Sydney takes about 1 - 1.5 hours, depending on the traffic. We recommend parking outside the Golf Club to avoid the pricey parking charges you’ll find near the Boathouse.

By public transport: The best way to get to Palm Beach by bus is to hop on the 190x from Wynyard. This takes nearly two hours, but it is direct all the way. Otherwise you’ll need to get the B1 bus from Wynyard and change for the 199 at Dee Why.


Royal National Park

Royal National Park is without a shadow of a doubt our favourite place to go whale watching in Sydney. You have the benefit of seeing these graceful giants whilst on a beautiful hiking trail. You’ll often have a lookout to yourself, making it complete bliss.

We’ve seen them from all over the Coast Track so it’s good to always keep an eye out, but we’ll also cover in more detail, our favourites places and where we have had the most luck.

All of these spots require hiking. You can get to the trailheads by using the Park Shuttle from Sutherland Station or by car (entry by car costs $12 per car per day).

Best places to see whales in Royal National Park Map

9. Eagle Rock, Royal National Park

This is our second favourite whale watching spot in Sydney and was our favourite until very recently. Not only is the spot utterly spectacular with an iconic rock formation and a waterfall that drops straight into the ocean but the walk to get there is also glorious.

The whales were easy to spot from up here because you are pretty high up and you can see for a really long way.

Eagle Rock in Royal National Park

There is so much space to find your own place to sit, even if you’re visiting on a busy weekend, and you can watch the whales from one of the most majestic places in the whole of Sydney.

There are three trails to access Eagle Rock, from Wattamolla, from Garie Beach and along the Curra Moors Track.

The cliffs at Eagle Head Rock

We’ve done them all and highly recommend you take the one from Wattamolla which is 8.8km return and fairly easy as well as being a true beauty. Here’s all the track details and ways to make it even more special.


10. Providential Point Headland, Royal National Park

Providential Point is along the same track as the Eagle Rock walk mentioned above, but much, much earlier on the trail for those that want a shorter walk. It’s only around 800m each way.

Whale watching spots in Sydney - Henry Head La Perouse

It’s another very special spot and fabulous for whale watching due to its height and sheer expansive view.

Providential Point Headland - Best places to go whale watching in Sydney

There is plenty of space to sit along the cliffside and settle in for a good session, but it can get a little busy if you visit on a weekend.

The walk to get there is mainly flat until the last few hundred metres when you have some stairs to climb to get those fabulous lofty views. If you’ve got more time in the area, we have a full guide to Wattamolla here.


11. Big and Little Marley Beaches, Royal National Park

We saw no less than six whales in this one area recently! We walked from Wattamolla which is around 4km each way. As you get towards Little Marley Beach you are high up on the cliffs and we spotted several whales from there.

The clifftops on the Wattamolla to Big Marley Walk

We then saw more and more as we walked between Little Marley and Big Marley Beach. It was pretty incredible. Approaching Big Marley from the opposite direction, via Wedding Cake Rock is also a great whale watching area so you can’t go wrong with whichever route you prefer to take.

Big and Little Marley Beaches are also both fabulous, and though it’s a bit wild for swimming, just sitting and watching the waves roll in is a wonderful way to spend the afternoon.


12. Figure of 8 Pools

I ummed and ahhed about whether to include this one. It’s had a lot of bad press recently which has sadly been down to a few tragic deaths when people have visited during risky conditions.

Whale watching tips to see them from land

But we promised to always share our best travel experiences with you, and for me, this was the most magical one of all.

Of all the whale watching tours I’ve done anywhere in the world, this was the spot that will forever be etched in my mind as something closer to a dream than reality.

The views from Figure 8 Pools

For the most part when whale watching in Royal National Park you are up on the cliffs, wonderful for visibility but a less intimate experience than watching them at ground level.

On our visit to the Figure of 8 Pools we were joined by no less than four whales right beside the rock shelf who proceeded to regale us with the best breaching displays I have ever seen. It was one of those moments that was so perfect I almost cried.

The beach on the way to the Figure of 8 Pools

The beach on the way to the Figure of 8 Pools

We were also the only ones to witness the display on the tiny rock shelf in the middle of the ocean as the sun rose. It shot straight to the top of the most memorable things I’ve done in Sydney list.

The Figure of 8 Pools can be dangerous though, please don’t visit without reading this guide first so that you can have a safe and hopefully just as magical experience as we did.


Tips for whale watching in Sydney

When will you see the most whale action

The whale watching season in Sydney runs between May and October. The absolute best weeks for spotting the highest number of whales from our personal experience and talking to others is mid June and early July.

We have seen them in every month of the season though, so it’s not that you won’t see them at other times - far from it - it’s just that you will probably see many during this four week period.

They also tend to swim closer to shore on the way up to Queensland, than on the way back down to Antarctica, which makes them that bit easier to see.


What to look out for when trying to spot whales

On a calm day anything that looks like unusual patterns in the water is probably a whale, or dolphins. You are most likely to see spray, sometimes you may even hear a blowing noise, which can happen many times in quick succession.

If you’re really lucky out of nowhere you’ll suddenly see a full breach, which is exactly what happened to me at the Figure of 8 Pools. Nothing, and then boom, the whole body shot out the water!

The other thing to look out for is a fin slap, or a tail stick out of the water. If you see the full tail out of the water, it’s likely that the whale has gone deep and won’t be coming back up too soon.

Whales can go under for long periods of time, so if you’ve seen some disturbance in the water, keep watching and hopefully you will be rewarded.

The key to it is patience and time. If you sit and wait, you are much more likely to see one!

whale watching sydney

Best weather for whale watching

For me, I think the weather is much more important when it comes to ease of spotting whales than time of day.

For maximum ease of viewing, you want a day when the ocean is calm. This means that any disturbance in the water is really easy to see and the spray stands out from a mile off.

If it’s wavy you can still see them but it’s just easier on a calm day. The whales also stand out more in photos when not surrounded by white caps.


Best time of day to spot whales

Unlike when it comes to most wildlife watching, which is best at dawn and dusk, you can, and we have, seen whales in Sydney at all times of day from sunrise right through to sunset.

It’s more about calm water and nice clear conditions out to sea, so clear sunny days are best.


How to make it more comfortable

Our whale watching trips tend to be on hiking trails, as opposed to sitting on a cliff and waiting, but when we have gone just to sit and wait you’ll realise it can be quite cold and windy.

At Cape Solander it was absolutely freezing and we’d highly recommend bringing layers to wrap up in, even on what feels like a warm sunny day. If you’ll be hiking too, this is less of an issue.


Whale watching from land vs on a boat trip

I’ve done many disappointing whale watching boat trips where I’ve seen nothing or just a fin or spray, but if you get lucky, it is hard to beat the experience from a boat because of how much closer you can get.

You are also closer to the whales level which makes the experience more intimate. For good photography opportunities, a boat trip is preferable as you can get much closer. Whilst you can photograph them from the land, you will need a big zoom lens.

Whale watching boat trip in Sydney

Having said all of that, as I mentioned, my most special experience was getting up close to the whales at the Figure of 8 Pools. There’s also something incredibly rewarding about spotting one yourself, and without a full boat of other people around, to make you feel at one with nature.

My advice would be to do both! Do a boat trip and then spend some time walking some of the fabulous coastal tracks we’ve mentioned and see how many whales you can spot in a season!


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Whale watching season in Sydney is one of our favourite times of year. We’ll tell you all the best vantage points to see them from land, as well as tips for when you’re likely to see bigger numbers.  We’ll also share the best conditions for sighting…
 

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